Newbie RHD steering issues

[Mickstang]

G'day everyone from Australind WA
Enjoyed reading through the forum so thought I better join
Not a lot of info on 71-73 models but I have a question the WA lads might be able to help with
I have a 72 coupe and unfortunately a few owners ago they decided to do a RHD conversion so too late to put back to LHD now I'm stuck with it
Looks like they have used mostly Falcon power steering components XA-XF and added 10mm spacers to each chassis rail. I'm told by a resto bloke down south this spacing will be incorrect and geometry will be out of whack. On a customer's mustang he has spaced the left rail/idler 22mm and modified the right rail to accommodate the falcon box, mine has been notched but needs more work
My question is I have 2 options here
The first option which will be easiest although expensive is to install a RHD RRS power rack at $3K
The second option and perhaps far cheaper is to find an expert locally to set up what I have and modify the rail etc
The bloke down south is far too busy to do this so if any of you Perth fellas know of anyone clued up enough to help with this would be much appreciated especially if experienced on 71-73 RHD
Cheers Mick

[hybrid]

Welcome Mick.
There's definitely plenty of people who have done this using local Falcon bits, so I'm sure someone here will be able to point you in the right direction.

I know for sure that Ozbilt (NSW) and Shaunp (QLD) know all about it.
Nassi (WA) used to work for a Mustang workshop, so they might have done it too.

[boofhead]

Welcome - photos please.

I would stick with the falcon box if costs justifies it. I personally think you need to establish exactly what, if any, is wrong with the steering then look to how you might go about fixing it. Take the the springs and shocks out of it and then you can move it though the suspension movement to see changes by measuring at set intervals. You can also measure your pivots points s well. The mustang is far from perfect so a good RHD conversion can be better than the factory. I know. Bad conversion can be worse - just need to know for sure from where your starting. If your farming it all out then it just might be easier and cheaper to get the rack.

[nassi]

Firstly, welcome mate. Unfortunately I have no experience with 71-73 conversions but I do know someone with a converted 73 Mach, I did a little work on it a couple of years ago but paid no attention to the mechanics of the conversion. I can get in touch with him and see if we can look at that conversion and ask how it drives. It is going to be a bit of a trip for you though as he lives in Bullsbrook, so it will be A to B.
Have you ben able to drive yours? Has it been registered in WA?
I think that recently RHD conversion have needed engineering here, I could be wrong but it is something I have heard lately. Did your licensing bloke mention anything about that?
Sorry mate, so many questions and you came here looking for answers.

[Mickstang]

Thanks for your input so far
My problem is although I've been fixing cars for a long time I have zero experience when it comes to steering geometry so unless I have a detailed set of instructions with measurements etc I'm up the creek with it.
Might be best to go with the rack however if someone (Nassi) knows somebody clued up enough in my area I don't mind paying to farm it out
Not in a big hurry as I have a lot of other jobs to do on it and waiting on DOT approval to do the mods/conversion etc
More questions later
Thanks guys
Mick

[nassi]

Message sent mate, as Boof say's, drop the springs and shocks and we can have a look, it may not be too bad, when you have done that then we can talk you through the process of checking it out. Bump steer is going to be the likely problem.

[ozbilt]

Photos would help. Cannot comment on the description as I do not know if spaced in or out. Also what drag link was used?

Good starting point for you is to measure the inside distance between the rails (steering box location to idler location) & compare to the XA-F rails.

Then we can offer some direction.

[Shaunp]

Jack it up in the middle, if the wheels point at different directions it has bump steer. I know there is something different about them, when you convert them. John Greene has done a few. I have a feeling the they pack them so you can use a Falcon drag link. Ive seen them where the idler arm is packed off the rail.

[boofhead]

The issue is the drag link as it needs to locate the pivot point correctly.
See the following diagram;



This shows where the pivot point needs to be located on the line between the upper control arm pivot point and the lower control arm pivot point and be parallel to the lower arm. This is how the mustangs are done. Given all of the other pivot points are stock then it is just the drag link points that are the main issue.

Note: It is better to be able to the arrange of the upper arm, lower arm and drag link tie rod to all point at the convergence point together. So the arm may not be quite parallel though this is a lot more trouble to do. See below

[Mickstang]

Okay I'll add some photos but to answer some questions no it's certainly not driveable and from what little I know it has never been registered. I have contacted a DOT approved engineer who suggested I get DOT approval first which I'm waiting on. I will be doing a restoration and some other mods as well so engineering certification will be mandatory.
Thanks Nassi I will call you after hours.
Ozbilt the 71-73 is 20-22mm wider than XA-F between the rails and as you can see from the photos a 10mm spacer on each rail which I'm told is wrong for using falcon steering.
I don't have any history of what was done but I reckon as it came with a 1976 XC 302C/C4 they have used the steering components from that but not 100% on the box, pitman & idler arms
Certainly is XA-XC draglink/tierods as I have XB set as a spare
Whoever started the conversion made a mess of it and I've had to virtually rebuild the firewall area
Bloke down south has a customer's 72 Mach 1 and it is spaced 22mm only on the left rail with a new rail section on the right to accommodate the box. I actually looked at the car, had a chat and he explained some of the steps necessary to get the geometry right but it went in one ear and out the other
Anyway will talk to Nassi and appreciate any help you guys can give but basically I either go down the RRS rack route or get some expert advice and use what I have.

[Shaunp]

I dont think RRS rack is wide enough. I suspect you'll need to add some length to a falcon link. No big deal just needs an x-ray.

[Mickstang]

I tried to add 3 photos but reckoned I exceeded max 3 photos?
Try again with only 2
Thanks Boofhead for the details I'll study them and if it sinks in will do as you suggest
Waiting on an original steering column and will set it all up again

[hybrid]

By the way, if you need to put photos up, try using photobucket.
We have a "howto" here:
http://www.mustangtech.com.au/Forums/vi ... /t=12.html

[hybrid]

I tried to add 3 photos but reckoned I exceeded max 3 photos?
Try again with only 2
Thanks Boofhead for the details I'll study them and if it sinks in will do as you suggest
Waiting on an original steering column and will set it all up again

That doesn't seem to have been done by someone who has done lots of them. It looks a bit like someone like me did it (an IT guy ).

[Mickstang]

ShaunP the RRS power rack is a bolt in fit for the 71-73 RHD conversion but I haven't seen any reviews for this particular vehicle only earlier 64-70 Mustangs
The engineer in Perth suggested unless I can sort out the geometry myself it may be better to just go with the RRS rack.
If I can get the right help or even if I have to pay someone a grand or so to set it up and maybe rebuild the falcon box then if under $2K would be worth it - if it works? However for $3K I can have a new power rack set up with the majority of my geometry problems solved plus should get through engineering easier.
Keep the suggestions coming and hopefully I'll be more enlightened or perhaps more confused?
Not trying to build a race car and would rather spend the extra cash on the engine but more importantly for now I just want to get it registered.