American Autowire Harness

[shane427]

Why not just get some blank fuse blocks, trip switches, relays and wire one yourself? Especially if your routing is not as per factory...

[mikes68]

Just found one on this sight for $560.00 USD. The cheapest by a mile. Why is is so much cheaper then the rest?

http://www.restomusclecar.com/1967-1968 ... p-293.html

Interesting they mention it is for the fastback / coupe... apart from the power top is there a difference??

I don't recall the painless site or the summit racing site mentioning they were for the fastback or coupe only.

Would be interested also if a bulk buy is arranged...

[muzz67]

My Car runs Old Air, the 20121 kit covered every possibility and with higher grade cabling than any other kit I researched.

Air, power steer, console lighting, radio, driving lights, reverse lights everything you could add in was covered/

Cheers
Lance

[cage]

Lance, check your private messages mate.

[hybrid]

Hmmm... it says 67-68.. what's different to the 66?

[Hawko]

Just found one on this sight for $560.00 USD. The cheapest by a mile. Why is is so much cheaper then the rest?

http://www.restomusclecar.com/1967-1968 ... p-293.html

That is a good price. I can't find a 64-66 one on thier site, might have to flick them a email.

[Hawko]

Why not just get some blank fuse blocks, trip switches, relays and wire one yourself? Especially if your routing is not as per factory...

Looked at that option, but the cost of buying all the different size and colour cable and the time to remove and refit all the plugs, I thought I wouldn't be saving much in the long run. There is a fuse block with circuits wired up on evilbay for $140 which I also thought about but same issue with plugs and knowing my luck the cable lengths would probably be too short.

[cage]

Just bought mine from Summitt Racing for $625.00 US. Freight was $105 and handling $25. Dollar was 0.96 so ended up including freight landed for $795.00 aussie. Got it in 4 days. Very happy with the quality of the harness.

[shane427]

Cage, can you please post some pics of what you get - what harnesses are included. Interested to see

Hawko - Just buy a few colours and sizes then label all your wires. I'm just using aftermarket plugs - few bucks each then cut the stock plugs of my new lights. I'm only going this route as I don't like wires coming through my firewall

My mate said just don't solder new wire into old wire all you will have problems - can't remeber the exact problem.... That was my original plan - now its all coming out

[ozbilt]

Making your own harness by using a "few colours" & then labeling is a recipe for disaster. In the future, when you have issues it will be very hard to trace wires & even more so for someone else to do it.

As far as soldering one wire to another, it is because unsupported soldered connections break.

You can make wiring look neat, all the race cars I have built over the years were neat looking & very easy to service, particularly when in a hurry. However nothing looks better than a "factory stock" harness routing in the engine bay, it is part of being a car, they need wiring

Look at any so called "show car" that has hidden wiring (& plumbing) that has done a few miles, they look like crap very quickly.

Which brings me to another pet hate of mine, cars lined up at shows with the hood (bonnet) open, they all look like they are broken down waiting on the mechanic to arrive. Cars look so much nicer when they are presented as on the road, must be the reason why manufacturer's advertising for cars always show them at their best (IE; not with the hood up!). I present any car I am showing with all panels closed, if someone wants to see the engine, I will lift the hood & close again after the viewing. Try getting some nice pics at shows, almost impossible....

[S[_]SPECT]

Interesting that you rate the painless as a 10 Kerry, as I had heard elsewhere that they were anything but...

I was looking into to using one of these harnesses, and had decided on the AAW kit as they include all the factory style switching...

More recently I have decided to just do the whole lot myself.. using factory colours (if I can get them), but switching via relays for the most part.

[cage]

Cage, can you please post some pics of what you get - what harnesses are included. Interested to see

Hawko - Just buy a few colours and sizes then label all your wires. I'm just using aftermarket plugs - few bucks each then cut the stock plugs of my new lights. I'm only going this route as I don't like wires coming through my firewall

My mate said just don't solder new wire into old wire all you will have problems - can't remeber the exact problem.... That was my original plan - now its all coming out

Will do Shane, I will try and take some tonight and post them up.

[Hawko]

Looking forward to the pics cage.


Ozbilt just reading back through the thread and you mentioned that the $200 would be saved by not having to use a auto electrician. this is the American autowire harness I was refering to. http://shop.americanautowire.com/classi ... stang.aspx
It appears to be marked out reasonably well.

Cheers
Dave

[ozbilt]

Looking forward to the pics cage.


Ozbilt just reading back through the thread and you mentioned that the $200 would be saved by not having to use a auto electrician. this is the American autowire harness I was refering to. http://shop.americanautowire.com/classi ... stang.aspx
It appears to be marked out reasonably well.

Cheers
Dave

Looks the goods... my comments before were my own experience & it has been over 12 years since I fitted an American Auto Wire harness, so I can only assume it has caught up with the market. Even the Painless harness I did was back in 2003, so a lot of water under the bridge.

Lance seemed to have no issues with his (although he did have a sparky fit it I believe).

[cage]

I am going to have a crack myself with some help from some sparky mates but in saying that it won't be for a while as my car still has a long way to go before I am up to wiring.