GT350 tribute

[ozbilt]

Seat belts are no big issue, Hemco stock them & you can then fit inertia reel belts to the front as well.

Most here recommend Hemco?

I do prefer the ones with a stalk rather than loose belt, there's a page full of angles, which inertia reel model would be best for the 65 fastback?

http://www.hemco.com.au/downloads/ExtendedGP.pdf

s

Depends on how big you are. belts to fit you, not the car as you will be the driver most of the time (I assume).

Call them & talk to them ( Greg from memory) as they know what fits & what has been ordered in the past. I listen to professionals when doing something out of my area of expertise.

[StephenSLR]

Let me know if you are getting rid of the TCP arms.

Right now I just want rego. Will have to see. I do want good steering but also some comfort. I don't want to feel every bump on the road.

Recommendations?

If inertia reel, you then get a dropper that puts the shoulder belt where it needs to be.

I prefer inertia reel, what is a dropper, are these ordered from Hemco?

The inertia reel bolts to the rear torque box & the belt end goes to the standard inner rocker mount.

I can't really picture this, I know of the set ups with inertial reel at inner rocker mount and the belt basically goes vertically straight up to the belt ring.

The 65 doesn't have the mount in the roof line for the belt ring (apparently put there from 66 onwards) I can have one put in but too much fiddling with hoodlining.

I can also have the top mount behind but it needs to be at least 600 mm above the lower window edge on the door. Does anyone have photos of a good set up in a FB?

s

[ozbilt]

Every one of your questions has been answered here before. I am going to work so will leave it to others to answer or link them to you.

Just one answer before I go. You will never get a comfortable ride with that size rim & tyre on the road. So the suspension issue is moot.

[StephenSLR]

So the "engineer" had nothing to say about the braided brake hoses & the lowering blocks in the rear?

The blocks were brought up, they are one inch and he was ok with them. I didn't get to actually meet this guy, Chris just had a list scrawled down. I was a bit suss on it. I better get an actual certificate if I'm going to outlay that kind of coin.

he is about as inconsistent as concourse judges are in this country.

Don't get me started, there are other things that I think can be questioned but I'm going to keep hush.

Afaik, there is no 'engineer' course or training, they have worked their way up from many different areas so it's likely each one has their own opinion and interpretation of the rules.

s

[StephenSLR]

They are TCP arms & are legal here in all states. They have rose joints, but they have Kevlar seals. It is the seals they look for.

Thanks for your help, I'll mention the above to Chris.

s

[nassi]

So the "engineer" had nothing to say about the braided brake hoses & the lowering blocks in the rear?

If not he is about as inconsistent as concourse judges are in this country.

:rotfl: :rotfl: and they are on both sides of the continent.

[StephenSLR]

They are TCP arms & are legal here in all states.

Thanks for this, do you have any contact name / Aus. distributor details for TCP? Basically someone they can call to verify this?

It'd be a great help.

s

[ozbilt]

They are TCP arms & are legal here in all states.

Thanks for this, do you have any contact name / Aus. distributor details for TCP? Basically someone they can call to verify this?

It'd be a great help.

s

Contact muzz67, soc123_au or cage as they all have TCP suspensions. muzz67 is already engineered & on the road, the others have the OK.

muzz67's coupe ......

http://www.bosskraft.com/67-restomod-coupe.html

[StephenSLR]

Contact muzz67, soc123_au or cage as they all have TCP suspensions. muzz67 is already engineered & on the road, the others have the OK.

Thanks, will do. I've already sent them an email referring to your points above. Will see how it goes.

s

[StephenSLR]

They are TCP arms & are legal here in all states.

I've contacted Chris regarding these, he'll accept that, the issue is the joints are showing signs of rust. I'd've thought they'd be alloy?

I can just replace the joints, he said to check to see if the cost of joints outweigh buying replacement arms. On TCP's website they only show upper control arm joints ($35) are they readily available in Aus.?

I also hear you can get boots for heim joints but can you get them for where these sit?

I've also mentioned the bolt hole in the roof rail, the issue he had with the hoodlining is if it's old it may crack during the process of stretching it back to fit. He knows a local motor trimmer and will have him take a look to assess it.

With regard to the bolt hole for the upper seat belt mount, does the plate have to be welded in behind it, on top or is cut and shut into position? For my own curiousity, how does the bolt secure into position, is the hole tapped?

s

[soc123_au]

Normaly you just make a plate with a nut welded inside & cut & weld it in. The joints you will need to get from TCP. If you call them & speak to Mike Weddle he will get them organised. Little stuff like that you should get within a week. Mike is a dry bastard to deal with, but he gets the job done. It is a holiday today over there, so you wont get them until Tuesday US time.

[ozbilt]

I've contacted Chris regarding these, he'll accept that, the issue is the joints are showing signs of rust. I'd've thought they'd be alloy?

The heim joints are stainless, rust should not be present, clean them you will find it's dirt.

I can just replace the joints, he said to check to see if the cost of joints outweigh buying replacement arms. On TCP's website they only show upper control arm joints ($35) are they readily available in Aus.?

That lower ball joint is Chrysler Volare and are about US$13 at any US parts vendor. The upper is a standard Mustang 4 bolt ball joint. I have the socket that installs the Volare ball joint. I doubt if anyone else in this country would have one that is not a MOPAR guy. The heim joints are sourced for the arms, so "if" you needed them you would have to order direct from TCP (Chris Alston).

I also hear you can get boots for heim joints but can you get them for where these sit?

I have already stated they have kevlar seals so do not need outer dust caps

I've also mentioned the bolt hole in the roof rail, the issue he had with the hoodlining is if it's old it may crack during the process of stretching it back to fit. He knows a local motor trimmer and will have him take a look to assess it.

It will not crack, I do them all the time.

With regard to the bolt hole for the upper seat belt mount, does the plate have to be welded in behind it, on top or is cut and shut into position? For my own curiousity, how does the bolt secure into position, is the hole tapped?

Read the above post again, I said it does NOT need to be welded. Slip it in the rail & place a bolt in the nut to hold in place, then drill a hole at each end of the plate through the rail so you can rivet it in. All that does is hold the plate in place until the seat belt is bolted in. Then it is in compression the other side of a rail. The factory uses a spot weld because it is installed during the building process. We have been riveting them in place for 40 years when doing conversions (unless the car is a shell, then we weld them, but only for ease of working).

This one installed while building the car, so it was welded (That 67 coupe)

[StephenSLR]

Thanks for all the help, I've emailed Chris your comments, instructions and photos, I hope he adheres to it.

It'll be such a relief if all is done properly.

s

[StephenSLR]

Out of curiosity, that plate you have there with that extra section of nut thread protruding, is that something you made or can buy?

s

[ozbilt]

Out of curiosity, that plate you have there with that extra section of nut thread protruding, is that something you made or can buy?

s

That is a standard Ford floor seat belt mount plate. I keep a bunch of them here from any floors I replace. In fact I keep every bracket of any body section I replace & store them for possible future use.

The one I described to you is a made up plate with a 7/16 UNF nut welded to it.